Winter escape to Yamagata's Ginzan Onsen and Zao Monsters

Winter in Japan offers plenty of attractions, from skiing and snowboarding, to warm onsen, snow monsters. While Sapporo Snow Festival is the most popular attraction, it is also expensive to travel during this time, and far from Tokyo. So we decided to do a weekend trip to Yamagata, Tohoku.

The best way to travel on a budget in Japan is by bus, even if they are much slower than the shinkansen. If travelling by night, you also save a night accomodation. Willer buses actually offer bus passes for 3, 5 or 7 days, with cost changing depending if you travel in weekdays or weekends. It is only available to foreign passport holders: https://willerexpress.com/st/3/en/pc/buspass/

Day 1: Yamadera, Ginzan Onsen

We departed Tokyo Shinjuku Busta station at 00:30 PM on a Friday night, arriving to Sendai (Miyagi) at 7 AM on Saturday. There we rented a car for 2 days, that is the most convenient way to visit the sights. Cars are already equipped with material for snow so there is no need to put chains yourself.

At first the snow was light, and we worried if in the end there wouldn't be much snow. We were not disappointed in the end. As we entered Yamagata prefacture the snow was heaviere and heavier.

After 1.5 hours we reached Yamadera (山寺) by around 10.30 AM, "Mountain Temple" in Japanese. It is a pilgrimage mountain with Risshaku-ji temple on the top, founded hundreds of years ago in 860. It costs 300 yen to enter the grounds, and the trail starts after Sanmon Gate. For us it took us 40 minutes to go up the 1000 stone stairs, but was not too hard while taking breaks. The road was full of statues, stone lanterns, and beautiful stalactites, all covered in snow.

The iconic temple is just on top.

Do not miss the views from Kaisando Hall, just up the actual temple, seeing the surrounding mountains and villages in snow was spectacular!

By 11.40 we were back down and headed to the next spot: Ginzan Onsen (1.15 hour drive), the main highlight of the trip ("Silver Mountain Hot Spring"). It is a secluded hot spring town with old traditional Japanese ryokans lined up at each side of a river. Snow was very heavy and roads were becoming icy, but the area had a good system of removing ice from the roads, at least during the day.

Tired from the journey, we first bathed in the onsen of Soba and Waterfall Takimi-kan (1000 yen). We were worried it would be closed, as most day-onsen in the area are only open until 1-3 PM, to allow those staying overnight access later on. But thankfully it was open until 3 PM. The rotenburo faced the snow covered mountains, an idylic experience.

We then walked down to Ginzan Onsen (20 minutes), and wow, it seems to have come straight out from a fairy tail! Having been to my fair bit of onsen town, I can say this is my favorite, though quite on par with Kurokawa Onsen (Kyuushuu). As you go down you see Shirogane Falls, cross icy bridges, and encounter different free foot bath areas.

As it was 2.30 PM, most restaurants were closed, and those that were open, had long queues, so we waited at Yukemuri Restaurant Shirogane, to have a teishoku. They even gave us blankets for the cold.

It got dark by 5 PM as we walked along the village and saw the different old ryokans, such as Notoya Ryokan. If you wish to spend a night in one of these ryokans in winter, I think bookings must be done even a year in advance!

By 5.30 PM temperature dropped to -2 degrees, so it was time to head back to our accomodation. In spite of having 6 to 7 layers of clothing and strong shoes, it was still too chilly. We spent the night at Yamagata Guest House, in Maruyama (35 minute drive). It is a hostel within a former hospital. For some reason the city hardly had any restaurants open for dinner, even being 7.30-8 PM, so we ate at a Saizeriya.

Day 2: Zao Onsen and Snow Monsters

The second day we drove to Zao Onsen (1 hour), another hot spring town between the mountains of Yamagata and Miyagi prefactures. It was also freezing cold, below zero. While not as charming as Ginzan Onsen, it is famous as a ski resort and known for its mineral rich water onsen. The main highlight for me however was taking the Zao Ropeway to the highest station Jizo Sancho (1661m altitude). It cost 3800 yen return trip, and it is worth it to go all the way to the top if taking the ropeway. Through the 20-25 min I could see the mountain with trees covered in snow, and through the second part of the ropeway, starting from Zao Sanroku, the famous Snow Monsters ("Juhyo"). They are trees covered in snow and ice through the unique metereological conditions that have been morphed to look like monsters.

Up in Jizo Sancho, temperature was as low as -8 degrees plus windy, so it was difficult for me to be out for long. I still walked a bit along the slopes to get closer to the Juhyo that we marvellous, but as you walk together with those skiing, and the floor is very icy, it was difficult to spend much time.

I was a bit scared to fall down, so after awhile I went to have lunch at the restaurant of the station while observing from inside. I recommend taking your own food up or eating later in Zao however as queues were long.

On the way down, I stopped at Zao Sankoku station, where skiiers finish. As it was a bit less cold, I could walk around some more around the snow and actually take a photo without freezing.

We couldn't help but go to another onsen: Genshichi Roten no yu Zao Onsen, costing only 600 yen. In contrast to the one in Ginzan, this one's rotenburo faced the lower edge of the snowy mountain. I insist that the best way to visit onsen is by visiting during day, as staying overnight at a ryokan is costly, and the onsen will probably not necessarily be prettier.

By 4.30 PM we drove back to Sendai (1.5 hours) to leave the car. I took the shinkansen back to Tokyo this time as I had early work the next day, taking only 2 hours to reach home, while the other friends took the overnight bus.

Overall it was an amazing winter escape. If you had more time or are coming at another season outside winter, I recommend checking Zao Fox Village or Akiu Falls.